Saturday 10 October 2015

Famagusta and Salamis

Note to self: Bring a nail clipper for any trip of more than two weeks. I thought I could get through this trip without one but my thumbnail has split, and it catches on fabric, e.g. when I reach into my pocket. Grrr.

I actually wanted the Best of the Island tour, but it was all booked out when Vasillis rang on my behalf, so I settled for this one. At least I will get to experience crossing into Turkish Northern Cyprus. Only Turkey recognises this self-proclaimed state, the rest of the world regards it as part of Cyprus. It is in fact part of the EU due to Cyprus being in it, but the EU acquis are considered suspended there for the time being.

The coastal strip from Larnaca until the border is filled with resorts and holiday rental accommodation, and new housing is being built. I even saw Chinese advertising on one sign. Prices seemed low compared to further north in Europe; I guess Cyprus is trying to attract investment.

The engine in the picture was the first one on the island, between Nicosia and Famagusta.

At the border crossing, which is adjacent to a British base, they took our passports for scanning but didn't stamp anything in it. The same procedure was done leaving.

I didn't notice much difference in the urban landscape of the two parts of Cyprus except for the signage. Incidentally because I had done a couple of terms of Turkish in preparation for my trip in 2000, I found that I could read more in Turkish than Greek.

As part of the tour, the bus drove past Varosha, the "ghost town" of Famagusta. This was an area that was bombarded by the Turks in 1974 causing the inhabitants to flee. They fenced it off and entry is prohibited, so there are only crumbling houses and buildings.

The bus dropped off some people in the historic walled city of Famagusta and took the rest of us to an optional part of the excursion, a visit to the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Salamis.

By the way one of the suggested etymologies of Cyprus is an old word for copper, from large deposits found on the island.

Depicted is the gymnasium of Salamis.

And the amphitheatre.

Salamis was abandoned after an earthquake and the inhabitants moved inland to Famagusta. The walled city there also provided better protection from invaders from the sea.

Next a visit to the church of St. Barnabas, who is regarded as the founder of the Cypriot church.

Then we returned to Famagusta for lunch and shopping by the keen.

Northern Cyprus has its own currency but purchases can be paid in Euro. Our guide advised us to ensure that any change we received was also in Euro.

I couldn't resist buying pomegranate juice from this vendor. He had a press to squeeze the juice from halves. He would have used the same press on oranges. It tasted tangy, as expected, but a little bitter due to the rind also being crushed. I got a paper cup containing of the juice of two pomegranates for 2.5€ which I regarded as a bargain.

Finally we were taken for an optional swim on a beach adjoining a "touristic ghost town", meaning that the beach was backed in places by crumbling hotels abandoned since 1974. I had a dip in the Mediterranean, my only time this trip. (I normally regard sea bathing as too much hassle.) It was surreal, swimming on a beach with these bombed out buildings behind it.

And that was the last bit of the excursion. I would have preferred to see natural sights; history is not my cup of tea, but it filled up the day.

Back in Larnaca, I napped then sought dinner. The strip was bustling with Saturday night diners. I despaired of finding anything I hadn't tried already when I spotted Buffalo wings on the TGIF menu. The waitress was a bit surprised I wanted only this starter and bruschetta. I wish they hadn't grilled the bruschetta, usually I get it at room temperature. The wings were alright; but the sauce could have been more tangy and spicier, and the wings could have been more deeply fried. I guess I'll have to go to the US to get the real thing.

A cup of frozen yogurt with toppings and an espresso completed the evening.

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